From the slinky columnal evening gown to the floats-n-flounces fairytale dress, NILAVILAKKU talks about the wedding gown in all its elegant splendour
Remember the wedding gown scene in the first instalment of the SIx and the City movie? Yes, the one where Sarah Jessica Parker's Carrie Bradshaw opens that humungous gift box only to reveal THE most beautiful ivory satin, full-skirted wedding gown that British designer Vivienne Westwood gifts her. Carrie's joy and wide-eyed wonder is what most brides-to-be must feel when they first take a look at the dress that they've probably spent months and even years agonising over... down to the very last detail. It is almost like a living character in the whole wedding hoopla!
So, what is the latest in gown couture? Is white still the 'it' shade and has the modern bride eschewed the tulle enhanced bustle on the skirt of her dress in favour of a more slinky silhouette? And is the train a relic of the past? Well, to be brutally honest, unlike most other aspects of fashion, bridal couture has never really swayed with the vagaries of what is trendy today and what is not, And this is precisely because of what it is-couture made especially for the bride and not merely bought off the shelf. She can choose to have it made in whatever colour, style and even length.
Cases in point. Delhi-based designer duo Gauri and Nainika Karan have recently experimented with the micro-mini wedding dress that features their signature origami folds. Mumbai's James Ferreira has gone down the midi route of the 80s with knee and calf-length wedding dresses that not only have that certain je ne sais quoi, but are also highly reusable-something a traditional wedding gown is sadly not known to be. As far as colour is concerned, we have recently seen gowns in a whole spectrum of hues with shades like old rose, beige, grey and even black (see box) featuring in the bridal collections of designers like Anjalee and Arjun Kapoor, Shane and Falguni Peacock and Wendell Rodricks.
Fabrics like the classic trio of satin, tulle and lace are seen today jostling for space with previously so-called non-bridal fabrics like lamé, spandex and even PVC. Embellishments have also graduated from mere crystals, beads and pearls to 3D embossing, metal riveting, feathers and leather. With so much on offer, we can't blame the bride for getting confused when asked to choose her dream gown. The best solution for her is to pick a gown's silhouette based on her figure.
THE FULL SKIRT GOWN
This is the classic Cinderella gown made of a fitted bodice that could even be in the lace-up corset style, with or without sleeves, with a traditional full skirt. This silhouette is supremely versatile, in that it works superbly for most body types, especially full-figured, pear-shaped or petite brides. Dupion silk, organza and tulle are the perfect fabrics to go with this cut. A can-can or stiff buckram underskirt enhances the fullness.
THE PRINCESS GOWN
Also referred to as the A-line gown, this silhouette typically has a strapless tapered top, sloped waist and flared skirt in floaty lace, gossamer, tissue or any other light fabric. A-line dresses tend to flatter women who have figures that are heavier in the hips and waist. For added drama, a detachable chapel-length train can be added as well as a shrug to cover the bare shoulders during the church ceremony.
THE GODDESS GOWN
Taking a cue from the 60s sheath dress that was made from one cut of fabric on either side, this gown is fitted and columnal and almost always made of a stretchable fabric like lamé without any embroidery or embellishments. The top can have a pleated drape on one shoulder almost like a pallu, which is very Grecian and the bottom can extend to just below the ankles. For the minimalistic bride with a figure to die for, this gown is the ultimate 'Goddess' dress.
THE FISHTAIL GOWN
Fitted on the top right till the knees, this gown then fans out resemble a fishtail with a small train trailing behind. Perfect for the bride with a small bust and waist, but scarily unflattering for the heavy-hipped bride. The sleeve length can vary from full sleeves to Magyar sleeves to spaghetti straps. The fabrics that work for this silhouette are raw silk and self-embroidered brocade with tulle for the tail and train part of the dress.
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